Every St. Patrick's Day I think back to the one I perhaps could have spent differently. It was 1997; I was studying abroad at University College Cork in southern Ireland for the semester and enrolled in 7 or 8 classes, including 20th century Irish history, Modern Irish, Irish folklore, Myth, History and Hagiography in Irish history - you get the picture.
Ua Flaitbeartaig pub, pronounced O'Flaherty
My Irish ancestors would have been proud. Well, except perhaps of my Irish. The priest met me every morning with a glare and it never got better. I do not have "the ear" for language, especially one where "dh" is pronounced "v."
I, you, he, she, we, you (pl), they
Michael Collins had just come out and I saw it in Ireland which of course made it more powerful. I saw bullet holes in the Dublin post office. I kissed the Blarney Stone twice (does that negate the effect or multiply it?) I watched curling and drank plenty of the national drink. Living with two music majors, I tried playing a bodhran and tin whistle. I learned to eat tuna on with buttered bread. Everything was "grand" and "brilliant."
Guinness for Strength, Bulmer's for fun!
As much as possible, I drank in (heh) Irish culture. So what did I do on St. Paddy's Day, that day of all days??
I left.
Spring break in Ireland is wonderful. Nearly a whole month off. And it began March 13. The dilemma: stay and be in Ireland for St. Patrick's Day or begin my tour of the continent? It was tough, but ultimately two factors led me away.
The Daly bridge near campus
First, I was itching to see more. When would I ever have the freedom to spend a month traveling around Europe? I had a Eurail pass burning in my pocket; why sit in my my flat watching Australian soap operas when I could be eating baguettes and brie on the banks of the Seine?
Second, believe it or not, St. Patrick's Day is more of an American holiday than an Irish one. Or an Irish diaspora holiday, I should say. Anywhere Irish emigrants ended up does St. Patrick's Day up big. In Ireland, however, March 17 is more of a religious holiday. Remember, St. Patrick brought Christianity to the Emerald Isle. At least it used to be religious. Now the descendants of those Irish emigrants come to Ireland and expect to find Chicago plus Boston plus, plus, plus!
When I was there the bigger cities were accommodating the tourist expectations and having parades, etc., but villages were quiet. I actually ended up spending St. Patrick's day in London, one of the diaspora communities, but didn't even have a pint that day. I do recall perhaps doing something rude in the general direction of Oliver Cromwell's statue at parliament, but we don't have to discuss that.
Ua Flaitbeartaig pub, pronounced O'Flaherty
My Irish ancestors would have been proud. Well, except perhaps of my Irish. The priest met me every morning with a glare and it never got better. I do not have "the ear" for language, especially one where "dh" is pronounced "v."
I, you, he, she, we, you (pl), they
Michael Collins had just come out and I saw it in Ireland which of course made it more powerful. I saw bullet holes in the Dublin post office. I kissed the Blarney Stone twice (does that negate the effect or multiply it?) I watched curling and drank plenty of the national drink. Living with two music majors, I tried playing a bodhran and tin whistle. I learned to eat tuna on with buttered bread. Everything was "grand" and "brilliant."
Guinness for Strength, Bulmer's for fun!
As much as possible, I drank in (heh) Irish culture. So what did I do on St. Paddy's Day, that day of all days??
I left.
Spring break in Ireland is wonderful. Nearly a whole month off. And it began March 13. The dilemma: stay and be in Ireland for St. Patrick's Day or begin my tour of the continent? It was tough, but ultimately two factors led me away.
The Daly bridge near campus
First, I was itching to see more. When would I ever have the freedom to spend a month traveling around Europe? I had a Eurail pass burning in my pocket; why sit in my my flat watching Australian soap operas when I could be eating baguettes and brie on the banks of the Seine?
The wall of my room;
note the Irish study sheets my friend made to help me pass the class.
note the Irish study sheets my friend made to help me pass the class.
Second, believe it or not, St. Patrick's Day is more of an American holiday than an Irish one. Or an Irish diaspora holiday, I should say. Anywhere Irish emigrants ended up does St. Patrick's Day up big. In Ireland, however, March 17 is more of a religious holiday. Remember, St. Patrick brought Christianity to the Emerald Isle. At least it used to be religious. Now the descendants of those Irish emigrants come to Ireland and expect to find Chicago plus Boston plus, plus, plus!
When I was there the bigger cities were accommodating the tourist expectations and having parades, etc., but villages were quiet. I actually ended up spending St. Patrick's day in London, one of the diaspora communities, but didn't even have a pint that day. I do recall perhaps doing something rude in the general direction of Oliver Cromwell's statue at parliament, but we don't have to discuss that.
Cromwell's statue
My Irish friends tell me I wouldn't recognize Ireland today, with the boom and now bust of the Celtic Tiger, but I have so many memories to treasure on this day on which we're all a little bit Irish. 
1 comment:
You must have been a child prodigy, because you appear to about 12 in the photo of you lifting a brew.
What a wonderful post! Makes me want to go to Ireland all the more!
Post a Comment